Lemaire debuted its Fall/Winter 2026 collection, titled mine eyes, in a presentation that seamlessly merges the realms of fashion and avant-garde theater. The show, staged in collaboration with director Nathalie Béasse, features a series of living tableaux that challenge the conventional boundaries of the runway, transforming garments into expressive narratives.
The collection explores the “soul” of fabrics, inviting viewers into a dreamlike atmosphere where materials come alive. Notable elements include lacquered denim that mimics the appearance of leather and crushed velvets that shimmer with a metallic sheen. This artistic approach showcases the collection’s focus on optical illusions and the mystery of movement.
Artistry Meets Functionality
Each piece in the women’s collection celebrates a metamorphosis, chosen for their deceptive qualities that evoke the essence of a moonlit night. Draping serves not merely as a technique but as a storytelling medium, with asymmetrical folds and pleated slits that create visual intrigue. Accessories play a crucial role, incorporating elements like key-shaped pendants that cleverly conceal corkscrews, along with whimsical designs such as seashells and starbursts.
The influence of Roland Topor, known for his surreal and rebellious artistic vision, permeates the collection. His distinctive pencil lines are translated into tactile forms through dry silk threads and spiny textures that bring his signature black humor into the physical realm. This season’s spirit is further reflected in meteorological prints inspired by stormy skies, designed for the modern individual navigating urban landscapes.
Harmonizing Styles for a Modern Era
The men’s collection grounds this ethereal vision, blending Western archetypes with Eastern fluidity. Traditional trench coats and mohair suits are reimagined through the lens of comfort, featuring Mandarin jackets crafted from supple calfskin. Lemaire’s clever pairing of sharp tailoring with domestic slippers introduces a harmonious balance between sophistication and homey comfort. Pops of neon amber and mint green add a vibrant touch, reinforcing the collection’s innovative spirit.
As the fashion world anticipates the influence of mine eyes, Lemaire’s latest offering illustrates a commitment to pushing artistic boundaries in clothing design. By transcending the traditional runway format, the collection stands as a testament to the evolving relationship between fashion and performance art, inviting audiences to reflect on the deeper narratives woven into the fabric of life.
